I have a strange addiction to Japanese restaurants. It's strange, because I have a severe allergy to most fish and seafood. Therefore, seventy or eight per cent of the menu is off limits to me. However, I persist for two reasons: KB is with me and he loves sushi; and I can content myself with a superb bottle of Sake and a real treat: Wagyu beef.

Where better to sample these delights than Zuma? Tucked away in a Knightsbridge side street across the road from Harrods and Harvey Nichols, this place is one of the best Asian restaurants in London, even though it has (for some mystifying reason) no Michelin star.

We were there for an early dinner yesterday (Saturday), and I'm already keen to go back. The staff kept us waiting as they finished their tasting and preparation rituals. But I didn't grudge them a single second for that, because the service was excellent.

We started with a delicious Miso soup with tofu and prawn tempura (prawn is one of the few seafood dishes I can eat). Both of these were extremely tasty, especially the soup which had a richness and depth to it which I have never experienced before.

Then KB moved on to lobster sashimi, which he describes as wonderfully sweet and fresh. Finally, the wagyu beef arrived: twenty slices of the finest red meat on the planet. Served medium rare (naturally), it's hard to describe just how good wagyu tastes: so tender it seems to melt on your tongue, so full of rich juices, so finely marbled with unsaturated fats - the product of a special diet which includes beer and sake! The wagyu came with two sauces, shoyu (a type of soy) and wasabi, not that this superb dish needs much enhancement. Wagyu would make any vegetarian think twice about their eccentric habits. I'll offer to take Sir Paul MacCartney any time!

The cold sake was golden and nutty on the palate, designed perfectly for a cool London autumn evening. Desert was a delicious green tea and banana cake, and then it was time for carriages back to the East End.

What a great dining experience this was. My only two critical observations would be that the lighting in the restaurant needs to be better, and - as good as the staff were - it would be nice if more of them were, er, Japanese.

Zuma, 5 Raphael Street, Knightsbridge, SW7 1DL. Call 0207 584 1010 for reservations. Website is www.zumarestaurant.com